Off to the Kalahari…
All around is quiet, except for the occasional call of a night bird or distant lion. The stars are bright and the moon is half full. A faint warm breeze touches your face as you stare into the glowing embers of a camp fire. You feel at peace in this place. Sounds like something out of a storybook right? And you wouldn’t be wrong either, only this story doesn’t end. Every day a whole new one is borne, with new adventures and experiences to share. And I suppose it is this which holds an attraction for the many who re-visit the bush of Africa over and over again.
I leave this Monday for a trip into the Kalahari, where I’ll be taking a small group of people through Bushmanland and up into the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Some of these people have done this before, but keep coming back. No doubt for the same reason why I do this professionally.
Very few things in life can compare to the purity of a shared moment in the bush, whether that be a hot cup of coffee or tea in the crisp morning air, an action packed game drive in the afternoon or a leisurely sundowner near the river in the evening. These moments resonate with a quality that can really only be experienced.
I’ll be up early on Monday to collect my group and begin the adventure into the depths of the Kalahari. So many little quaint stops await us en route, with particular emphasis on all the early mining towns and Khoi settlements that sprang up around a 150 to 200 years ago in South Africa’s north western territories. One example – the town of Upington, once the administrative capital for the northern reaches of the Cape Colony in the mid 19th century. It was originally established by cattle rustlers who would hide out on the numerous islands found along the Orange river in the area. Their cattle raids would take them deep into the Kalahari. As far as Namibia. Returning to the cover of these islands. When settlers began moving into the region, they feared for their safety, and both the local Khoi settlers (pastoralists) and white farmers pleaded with the Cape governor to send a missionary to establish a station on the banks of the Orange river. Their request was met with a swift response and a mission station was soon erected. It wasn’t long thereafter that more buildings were erected for early commerce. And thus were the beginnings of a little town that today has grown into one of the gateways of the Kalahari, whilst its farms produce fine sultana’s for the world market.
Once we reach the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park we enter one of the largest sand basins, where aeolian sands have been blown in from Nambia’s desert region over millenia. These red sands are very distinctive of this region, and are the result of a constantly oxidising process where the sands quite literally are rusting, giving them that unique orange/red appearance.
Life out here is remarkable, and I will savour the evenings and mornings when activity will be at its best. Ever watchful for the Kalahari lions or the icnonic Gemsbok (Oryx gazella), we’ll drive some of the loops along the ephemeral Nossob river sytem, stopping for a picnic lunch around midday. Then head off along the gravel road keeping a keen eye open for fresh tracks or feasting predators on the horizon. By evening we’ll relax around a fire and enjoy a glass of wine or maybe a beer ( or two).
This weekend I’ll be preparing all the logistics along with the assistance of my fellow colleagues – supplies, accomodation, vehicle spares etc. I’ll be back in Cape Town just in time for the opening of the Soccer World Cup. So you may find the regular update somewhat delayed. Don’t dispair…I’ll be back!















Thanks for making the effort to make clear the terminlogy to the beginners!
I’m back from the Kalahari… and have to say it was yet again a wonderful trip. No less than 10 Lion (2 Males shared the leadership of this pride), and one Leopard who found a way to jump onto the top of a water reservoir to drink (a 2.5 metre vertical jump). Also saw 2 Lappet-faced vultures, a Bateleur eagle and a Martial eagle. And of course that great rest-camp companion, the Pearl-spotted owl. Star gazing was incredible, with scorpio beginning to sink below the horizon, allowing its old mythological nemesis, Orion to take the winter stage in our southern skies. My group where really great, and their highlight must surely have been Nossob rest camp in the middle of the National Park.