Strong feelings bubble up when a conversation turns to poaching, and recently that would involve the poaching of rhino horn. The blatant slaying of rhino’s – be they pregnant cows or single bulls – the desperate will take anything. Southern Africa seems to be gaining a reputation amongst syndicates for the easy pickings, experiencing the worst rhino poaching in 15 years. And poor Africans desperate for money will do anything to feed their family – including risking their own life to kill a rhino for its horn.

It takes about twenty minutes to shoot and skin a Zebra, if you are a professional poacher. It takes ten minutes to shoot and cut off a rhino horn. The difference in value? Well quite a bit actually. That’s the draw for poachers – instant moneybags. The flipside of the coin?

A species that will vanish in our lifetime.

According to the Stop Rhino Poaching website http://www.stoprhinopoaching.com/ there are around 23,000 Rhino’s left worldwide. So the question I ask to end users is: what ya gonna do when da horn runs out? Finally realize that your great, great grand uncle from the Far East was lying all along about its great health improvement qualities. And that you really need to wake up to the modern age. Or… you could start eating horse hooves – it’s made of the same stuff as rhino horn!

This story reminds me of those other members of our broad human community who take pleasure in eating highly endangered species simply because they are endangered or unique, or those who continue promoting the killing of whales, dolphins and sharks under the guise of ‘scientific’ research. Or was it that back-hander to the sleazy official? Not too sure.

Anyway we’re going off our topic. So, rhino’s…

Quoting a recent report: “According to figures released in July 2010 by South African National Parks (SANParks), 152 rhinos have been poached so far this year. The Kruger National Park alone has lost 1 black rhino and 65 white rhinos to poachers since January. The Provincial Parks suffered a loss of 3 black rhinos and 42 white rhinos while private game owners lost 1 black rhino and 40 white rhinos. SANParks confirmed that they also add rhino calves that are found dead as a result of their mothers being poached, to the total figure.”

It begs the question: what is SANParks doing while Rome burns? I’m sure they have an answer for every question…or is that an excuse for every fault. The SANParks bosses either need to be given the boot, or given the boot. Because it’s been long enough now, with a progressively worsening state of affairs unfolding. Rhetoric and words mean nothing if they cannot be actioned. I’m sure there are a number of private security companies who would be more than happy to work for SANParks within its anti-poaching unit program. Unfortunately, it seems that South Africa’s current Environment Minister is rather horizontal in her approach to engaging this dilemma. Leaving many tourists and South Africans frustrated at the lack of notable interest. The 2010 World Cup brought many nations to South Africa, and according to statistics, 16% of those who visited have or will book a return visit in 2011 (that’s 16% of approximately 500 000 people). So the long term effects of the World Cup can only be a good thing…that is if those who are responsible for managing the very resources tourists are coming to visit can actually be counted on for ensuring those resources aren’t damaged or degraded. Or in the case of the Rhino’s; slaughtered.

According to one source there is some movement within government: South Africa National Parks spokesperson Wanda Mkutshulwa said the government has established a Wildlife Reaction Unit to fight and combat rhino poaching.

“The aim of the unit is to coordinate the reporting, investigation and prosecution of these criminals in a systematic and deliberate manner, because it has come to light that we are not dealing with your ‘normal’ poacher but rather with organised crime involving a number of syndicates,” said Mkutshulwa. Okay, so they’ve fed the public something to chew on, great. That doesn’t mean diddly if rhino’s are still being poached. It just means they assume Joe public will be happy that a ‘statement’ has been released and all will be made right. Ha Ha!!

If a poacher is caught what happens, a little jail time or a fine. Big deal, after that they go straight back to doing what they know. And the syndicate bosses just smile, whilst they increase their portfolio profits. Yup, syndicates. Organized crime is now involved in a big way with rhino poaching, hiring mercenaries, using helicopters and shooting with veterinary dart guns.  When the animal drops from the tranquilizer, they touch ground and saw out the horn. So just how is an anti-poaching foot patrol supposed to combat this level of operation? Clearly these syndicates operate various illegal operations throughout the world, rhino horn being just one aspect. So, this whole ‘war on poaching’ (thanks George) needs to be designed to be pre-emptive. And that means going global, networking with other countries and organisations to tighten the net on these syndicates.  Treating the symptom is really not helping. One must get to the root.

Borders mean nothing in today’s world of business. Wars are created for profit, oil is artificially priced and trade in humans, plants and animals is still as common today as it was when the slave merchants and salt traders regularly crossed the Sahara two to three thousand years ago. Have we changed then? Yes and no. Our social environments create our world views and mould our opinions. We are the ones who allow ourselves to become like this. We are the ones who allow others to continue weighing our good efforts down. Should we condone one nation’s traditions at the expense of another nation’s heritage?

Faan Coetzee, head of the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Rhino Security Project, which works to help private landowners such as game parks to prevent poaching said: “The poachers are motivated by greed, with the bulk of demand coming from China and Vietnam where horns are ground up and used in traditional medicine thought to reduce fever and even cure cancer.”

So does the fault really lie with these poachers. Or is it simply a manifestation of our lack of responsibility and awareness as a global society towards those things which allow us to continue living so abundantly?

What can I say…a truly remarkable land filled with such diversity and adaptations, it begs one to return again and again. The group of students and their two teachers were a real treat to work with. Eager to learn and willing to play their part in the daily camp duties.

I’m sure some of them will go back knowing a little more about making potato salad and preparing sandwiches at the side of the road. We all got to know each other at a game lodge just outside Windhoek. Here I took them all out on a couple of walks around the reserve pointing out the various relationships between species, and what one may find in the area.

After that we headed north to the Cheetah Conservation Fund camp where we were given a very thorough briefing on the work they do in keeping cheetah populations alive and well in Namibia, especially in their work on training dogs as goat herders to protect farmers interests from predation by any threats from wildlife.

After that we visited the World famous Etosha Park. Here we enjoyed vast open plains game sightings and some good Black Rhino sightings near the waterhole in the evening (I counted five at one point). Our driver also joined in the action spotting a group of resting Spotted hyena near a waterhole whilst on drive.

Then it was off to Spitzkoppe – a wonderful example of an granitic igneous intrusion. Standing out among an open landscape rises this dome of granite – much like Uluru in Australia does. We took a guided walk up the slopes to visit the Bushmen cave paintings, and after which a casual stroll along its edges was taken, spotting small wildlife along the way.

We stopped briefly in Swakopmund for a dolphin boat trip, before heading off to Sesriem canyon and Sossusvlei in the south. Here we had the good fortune to meet Yuri, an excited local guide with a wonderful knowledge on all things Sossusvlei.

All too soon though the trip came to an end, and the students were on their way back to the UK. Hopefully a little richer for the experience!

Two weeks of adventure and exploration await me, along with a large group of eager students. This should be a wonderful opportunity to discuss this land and its many secrets of survival.

Both plants and animals have learnt to adapt to this very old landscape. 100 million years ago the genus Ficus (fig tree) began a mutualistic relationship with the wasp. Each wasp species co-evolved to lays its eggs in a specific tree species. So that today the two really cannot live without each other. One can generally find the large fig tree in the more northerly areas of namibia or in the rocky terrain where bats frequent and water collects.

We’ll be haeding up to Etosha after a couple of days of introductions into the ecology of Namibia. Once in Etosha we’ll explore the various relationships between prey and predator, and plant and herbivore. Of course, we’ll enjoy those remarkable sunsets too. Although, the winter months tend to be rather cold, so no doubt lots of warm drinks will be had.

After Etosha we’ll head south to learn about cheetah conservation and then onto the coastal areas, exploring the geology along the way. Spitzkoppe is just one of a number of remarkable ‘koppies’ which can be found near Swakopmund. These granite intrusions were formed underground many millions of years ago. Slowly the erosive nature on the surface exposed these granite domes, much like how Uluru or Aire’s Rock in Australia was formed.

Finally, we’ll head into areas further south to explore the canyons and incredible moon landscapes of Sesriem. It should prove to be a very interesting trip, and I’m sure I’ll be able to give some feedback when I return.

Until then, please browse through the many other articles!

Of the numerous mutualistic relationships found in Africa’s wild places, the honeyguide bird has surely got to be one of the more recognised ones. Many stories abound in folktales about considering this birds guidance to places of honey. Misfortune would surely follow the one who did not leave a piece of honey comb or honey for this birds’ help in locating the bees nest.

Curiously enough, it also has the distinction of being a brood parasite -- a female will lay an egg in the nest of another birds nest, preferring nests in hollows of trees. The young honeyguide after hatching and still blind would then use a special membranous hook on its beak to kill off any other young in the nest. This ensures a greater success rate for new generations of birds, whilst reducing the need of adults to spend time raising young.

Although not exclusively reliant on honey and beeswax, it certainly favours the sweet taste of it. While not looking for honey it can be found searching for insects, termites or bee larvae, sometimes seen in mixed groupings with other birds following the movement of animals as they unknowingly flush out insects in the grass.

I suppose its association with certain mammals in leading them to bees nests may be based on occassional sightings of the two together at nest sights. Most people might be aware that the Honey Badger (Mellivora capensis) also favours a sweet feast of honey. And will readily try its luck against the stings of fierce african bees. So its only natural to think that this bird had something to do with guiding the badger. Its possible, but I wouldn’t say factual.

I’m more likely to think the honeyguide bird will try its luck with any mammal which regularly associates with bees and honey. And one such mammal is the Human. Very likely from early on in our history we enjoyed the taste of honey, and so regularly sought out bees nests, smoking them out in the early morning and taking their precious food reserves. The young honeyguide bird, eager for bee eggs, honey or larva would quickly be alerted to passing humans in its area.

Bee keepers have had a long and uncomfortable relationship with the honey badger, relentlessly pursuing this mammal in order to preserve their livelihood. Such persecution has caused badger populations to drop to near threatened in southern Africa (Red Data Book for Mammals). In the two years I spent working in the Kalahari I must have seen only a handful of badgers, and every sighting was at night. A clear indication of badgers avoiding human contact and of their very low numbers.

The Badger Friendly initiative was established to help highlight the plight of Badgers from ruthless killing by beekeepers. Retailers who promote this can be recognised by their products displaying “badger-friendly” on their products. Only labels displaying  EWT, Green Trust or WESSA should be trusted. This initiative is South African based -- for information on badger-friendly products in your country enquire with the in-country WWF branch. .. ..

All too often I’ve seen people rushing through the Park to get a glimpse of the Lions at a kill, or a herd of Elephant at a waterhole. Sure those are great sightings, but they’re not the only things ‘out there’. I really enjoy taking a simple walk through the areas near the bush camp, or a stroll along a river looking for little insects busily going about their daily routines. You’ll be amazed at what goes on closer to the ground.

Have you ever tried looking for holes in trees to see what birds are nesting in them? Its like a treasure hunt. Even better, try sitting in one spot for half an hour and see who comes walking by. A little mongoose, or perhaps a rock agama relaxed enough to re-emerge from his hiding place to once again bask in the morning sun.

I remember sitting on a rock on the slopes of Table Mountain in Cape Town some years ago. I was absolutely silent. Almost merging with the landscape around me. Next thing I almost jumped out of my skin. A bird had landed on a branch very near to me and began calling. It was that close to me. I quickly composed myself and continued to enjoy the bird song. Then I spotted a large grey mongoose doing the morning foraging rounds. He was totally unaware of my presence and walked right past me (I was on a rock so my wind or location did not expose me to his constant safety checks). I could see every detail of this mammal as it cruised past.

Have you ever seen a Spider Wasp taking on a spider – it’s quite a duel. But in order to witness this, one needs to listen for that distinct loud drone of the wasp as it flies about probing holes for spiders. Follow it around and you’re eventually going to have front row seats to a spectacular gladiator duel. The wasp will generally not even bother with your presence once engaged with a spider – but please do not interfere with either insect (leave your emotions at home).

How about trying to find out what insect is making that peculiar noise – I once did this with a bladder grasshopper. It sounded like a frog, but revealed itself to be a big green grasshopper!

I generally try to look out for that incredible insect the Millipede or Shongalolo – a black cylindrical plated insect with many legs, sometimes seen as red legs. And in Africa these guys grow to lengths of 10 or 15 cm long. They are great for handling (very carefully) and always feel ticklish when walking along your arm. Wash hands after handling, as they might discard a parcel! Also these insects are known to have traces of Cyanide in their system, so are not very edible to birds. Although certain mammals will eat them.

Some years back a group of us were driving along a road in the Waterberg region of South Africa when we stopped the car. In front of us was what appeared to be a snake in the road. On closer inspection we noticed it was in fact a column of silky worms. They were using an ingenius method to cross over an open expanse. By linking to each other using silk, these insects created the impression from above that they were one organism. More specifically, a snake. And birds don’t generally catch snakes. By linking together these caterpillars had devised a way to not be picked up by a hungry bird. Clever stuff that. We of course waited until the column had crossed the road.

Have you ever tried making friends with a lizard? Sit still near a rock were you know a lizard hangs out. And just wait until he re-emerges. Eventually the lizard should relax enough to let you get some good pictures. Or you can just sit next to him and enjoy the morning sun as well!

The more we can learn to consider listening, and sitting quietly, the greater our chances of seeing so much more activity whilst out in nature. Even with the big things. Too often people spend far too little time just observing animal behaviour in order to learn about their personalities. You’d be surprised to know that lions are not just cold-blooded killers, but have little character traits which when one can spend time just observing, are soon revealed, and then the game viewing takes on a whole new dimension. And that goes for all the creatures ‘out there’.

All around is quiet, except for the occasional call of a night bird or distant lion. The stars are bright and the moon is half full. A faint warm breeze touches your face as you stare into the glowing embers of a camp fire. You feel at peace in this place. Sounds like something out of a storybook right? And you wouldn’t be wrong either, only this story doesn’t end. Every day a whole new one is borne, with new adventures and experiences to share. And I suppose it is this which holds an attraction for the many who re-visit the bush of Africa over and over again.

I leave this Monday for a trip into the Kalahari, where I’ll be taking a small group of people through Bushmanland and up into the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Some of these people have done this before, but keep coming back. No doubt for the same reason why I do this professionally.

Very few things in life can compare to the purity of a shared moment in the bush, whether that be a hot cup of coffee or tea in the crisp morning air, an action packed game drive in the afternoon or a leisurely sundowner near the river in the evening. These moments resonate with a quality that can really only be experienced.

I’ll be up early on Monday to collect my group and begin the adventure into the depths of the Kalahari. So many little quaint stops await us en route, with particular emphasis on all the early mining towns and Khoi settlements  that sprang up around a 150 to 200 years ago in South Africa’s north western territories. One example – the town of Upington, once the administrative capital for the northern reaches of the Cape Colony in the mid 19^th century. It was originally established by cattle rustlers who would hide out on the numerous islands found along the Orange river in the area. Their cattle raids would take them deep into the Kalahari. As far as Namibia. Returning to the cover of these islands. When settlers began moving into the region, they feared for their safety, and both the local Khoi settlers (pastoralists) and white farmers pleaded with the Cape governor to send a missionary to establish a station on the banks of the Orange river. Their request was met with a swift response and a mission station was soon erected. It wasn’t long thereafter that more buildings were erected for early commerce. And thus were the beginnings of a little town that today has grown into one of the gateways of the Kalahari, whilst its farms produce fine sultana’s for the world market.

Once we reach the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park we enter one of the largest sand basins, where aeolian sands have been blown in from Nambia’s desert region over millenia. These red sands are very distinctive of this region, and are the result of a constantly oxidising process where the sands quite literally are rusting, giving them that unique orange/red appearance.

Life out here is remarkable, and I will savour the evenings and mornings when activity will be at its best. Ever watchful for the Kalahari lions or the icnonic Gemsbok (Oryx gazella), we’ll drive some of the loops along the ephemeral Nossob river sytem, stopping for a picnic lunch around midday. Then head off along the gravel road keeping a keen eye open for fresh tracks or feasting predators on the horizon. By evening we’ll relax around a fire and enjoy a glass of wine or maybe a beer ( or two).

This weekend I’ll be preparing all the logistics along with the assistance of my fellow colleagues – supplies, accomodation, vehicle spares etc. I’ll be back in Cape Town just in time for the opening of the Soccer World Cup. So you may find the regular update somewhat delayed. Don’t dispair…I’ll be back!

Nothing in the Kalahari goes unnoticed, least of all by its inhabitants. And as the young Camelthorn tree  (Acacia erioloba) begins to make headway, filling out its branches and trunk, all manner of creature decends upon its vicinity, eager to take up a piece of its prized real estate. Out here the Camelthorn tree could quite easily be considered a ‘key stone’ species (one which is seen as intricately linked into the relationships of several other species, and as such is considered vital to the continued well-being and survival of those dependant species).

First on the shopping list of species to take up residency might be a small not easily seen character. A member of the tick family, the Tampan tick. Curiously, this creature doesn’t like the hot weather, and so seeks out the cooler shaded spots under trees, where it positions itself a few centimetres below the surface. Here it sits and patiently waits for an unsuspecting mammal to find shelter out of the hot midday sun. Sensitive carbon dioxide receptors detect the respiratory activity of mammals, quickly alerting large numbers of these blood-suckers to surface. Once on a host, the ticks engorge themselves on an animals blood, with the animal totally oblivious to the attack. How? Nature has a way of evolving strategies. And this particular one involves a weak neurotoxin found in the saliva of the tick. What this does is deaden the flesh and nerves around the bite site, allowing the tick to drink till its belly is full. Remember this next time you’re looking for a shady tree to picnic under while in the Kalahari.

Swinging to the other extreme are the impressive sociable weavers (Philetairus socius). These amazing birds live together in large colonies within the support structure of the mature Camelthorn tree. Constantly bringing grasses to add to the nest, these apartment buildings of the bush can grow into massive conglomerations of savanna grass, sometimes consuming entire trees. Weighing up to 1 Ton (1000 kg), its not uncommon to have the thick branch of a Camelthorn break under the tremendous weight of the colony, especially after a heavy summer thunder shower. These colonies are home to several generations, with up to 300 birds living in a large colony.

Of course all their twittering and breeding doesn’t go unnoticed. The ever-resourceful Cape Cobra (Naja nivea) can sometimes be spotted tactfully moving from one nest hole to the next looking for chicks. This snake lays about 8 – 20 eggs in the summer, so it needs to find a good source of protein. And the sociable weavers who love to breed all year are perfect. By age one the bird is already feeding its siblings. That’s right…its brothers and sisters. Its called co-operative behaviour and is a survival mechanism to ensure species continuation. These birds are truly remarkable, and should a nest be robbed by a Boomslang/Tree snake (Dispholidus typus) or Cape Cobra, the birds will help feed their neighbours young, whilst they wait for the female to lay a new batch of eggs. These snakes can sometimes take up residence in the colony, raiding the nests daily. And one researcher recorded a period between September and April where a Boomslang repeatedly raided a specific nest under observation in which 8 broods had been eaten. For 7 months the parents had produced young, and every time the young had not lived long enough to be able to fly. The Honey badger has also been recorded digging into the nest from the top in order to reach the nesting chambers, leaving a telltale roof hole in the process.

There is however some protection afforded to these birds in the form of the Paper Wasp, who chooses to build its colony under the nest in the shade. Any threats to its nest and the wasp will attack. Furthermore, the Pygmy falcon (Polihierax semitorquatus, 19.5cm tall) also chooses one of the sociable weaver compartments in which to roost. And one can quickly spot this by standing under a weaver colony and looking for the telltale signs of white droppings at the falcons chosen compartment. A single pair of Pygmy falcons will either utilise a colony from the sociable weaver or the Redbilled Buffalo weavers (their nests are single grass nests with up to 20 nests in a tree). Then there is the roof top – the place above all the compartments where some larger birds find a roost. Owls, Eagles, Vultures and even Geese will make use of the comfortable platform. Whilst Lovebirds, Barbets, Tits and Finches have been recorded utilising the compartments underneath. So the weavers are afforded a certain degree of protection from these associated relationships.

The wonderful thing about the weavers nest is its ability to serve as a thermal regulator against the extreme Kalahari temperatures. Come winter the outside night temperatures can drop to below freezing, whilst inside the nest the temperature is kept at around 23°-25°C. This is partly the result of the birds huddling together (up to five per compartment), and also the insulating effects of the thatched grass architecture. The same could be said for the summer months when temperatures become too hot – things inside the colony tend to stay in the mid 20’s, with bird’s opting to retire to one per compartment.

The Camelthorn pod or fruit is quite hard and not easily broken, but two animals which favour this during the late winter months when food is scarce are the Gemsbok and Eland. In fact, this tree cannot really propogate without the help from these herbivores. And the timing of eating these seeds allows for a perfect synchronicity, for as the seeds pass through the digestive system and are softened, they exit the animal ready to be germinated in a steaming pile of dung. Just as the summer rains arrive.

This tree is a remarkable example of how a fragile system such as the Kalahari can survive and flourish even in the face of extremes. Where one species supports a myriad of lifeforms. And I’ve not even touched on the insect life found on this tree and the associated mammals who feed on them. On my night drives in the Kalahari, I would regularly spot Eagle owls, Striped Polecats, small-spotted Genet, Pearl-spotted owl and the occasional African Wild cat moving about its branches. Clearly these animals used the tree in their nightly foraging sorties. I can only think of how brilliant an example this tree is in highlighting the interconnectedness of life, and how each species is dependant on the other for its continued survival and well-being.

One could be forgiven for assuming that most plants, and indeed trees are only pollinated by a handful of insects. But dare I say, this is not so. For even where there is no insect, a plant could potentially still reproduce and be pollinated. In todays world where farmers rely heavily on bees for setting their orchards and other crops to fruit, other, less focussed pollinators are still assisting in the work.

And this is where the concept of a complete system is realised. As much as bees enjoy nectar for their continued propagation, other insects, and indeed even mammals contribute towards the promotion of pollination. In particular, this can be evidenced in locations which are reasonably undisturded by anthropogenic or human-based activities. Such places would be areas bordering wilderness sites or places which have been brought under correct conservation management.

With the global reduction in bees, new and compatible methods of pollination need to be developed, with the result that some greenhouses are now using bumblebees in pollinating tomatoes and other crops. And I’m sure biologists are already looking into using other existing pollinators such as moths, bats, birds and butterflies on specific crops. In fact even the elements could potentially be put to use as pollinators – they already do under natural conditions, with grasses being pollinated by wind, and water acting as a carrier of fallen pollen from marginal plant species.

However, nothing beats plant specific insects which have co-evolved with certain plants to perform cross-pollination duties. Have you ever stopped to look at a butterfly unravel that long tongue like appendage into a plant, or seen a hoverfly extend its probiscis ever so carefully into the ‘landing pad’ of a flowering plant. One could easily spend half a morning during the summer months observing the garden activity of the pollinators. Busily moving about from plant to plant.

Its too easy to forget these small workers in our daily lives, busily contributing to our economies without asking for anything in return. We foolishly cut into their territories without thinking about the repercussions, and add poisons to their environment in our efforts to reduce the ‘nasty’ pests. And then wonder why the world of pollination is now experiencing a reduction in the numbers of pollinators. Birds, bees, butterflies and bats are all seeing a reduction in their numbers from the very likely impact of anthropogenic activities.

Believe it or not, flies and wasps are also pollinators. They may not pollinate commercially viable crops as yet, but they do help in pollinating plants in wilderness areas. The fly for example is readily attracted to the fetid smells of carrion plants (plants which give off a smell like a dead animal). Thus ensuring the continuation of such plants as (Stapelia gigantea and Hoodia gordonii) which may be found in regions like the Kalahari. As to the wasp, it has an interesting relationship. Some species of wasp have evolved a very specific relationship with the fig tree in which a single female will enter a fig fruit through a tiny opening. Once inside she will lay her eggs and die. The offspring will hatch and crawl out over the pollen heads and fly off to another fruit, and crawl inside rubbing off the pollen they collected from their host fruit, thus pollinating the fruit from the inside, where the figs flowers are.

Other pollinators that biologists have recorded are monkeys, lemurs, possums, rodents and even lizards. And I’m quite sure there are others which by simple association within a specific area they regularly brush up against flowering plants or trees, and then move on to another nearby tree of like species. Think of browsing antelope, giraffe or even a Leopard who chooses a new tree hidout. Thus the inter-relationships of pollination can be seen to be rather dependant on a healthy well balanced system.

Sure bees will no doubt feature strongly in our commercial endeavours to manage large crops, much like the combine harvesters move from south to north across the USA, following the ripening crops, so too are bees used in pollinating these mega mono-culture operations. And we need to remember this every time we take a bite out of an apple.  Declines in the health and population of pollinators pose what could be a significant threat to biodiversity, global food webs and to human health. At least 80% of our world’s crop species require pollination to set seed. An estimated one out of every three bites of food comes to us through the work of animal pollinators.

This world is truly connected, and like it or not, we rely on this food web to sustain our own existences. Declining populations of pollinators have been monitored in the USA over the last 50 years, with the result that observations have witnessed a 90% decilne in wild honey bees, whilst managed bee populations have dropped by about two thirds. A number of human-based activities seem to be linked to the decline in these populations: irresponsible use of pesticide applications, loss of habitat, the global spread of parasites and diseases and the destruction of bee hives/colonies.

In looking to help this situation people are planting nectar rich plants in their gardens,or planting plants which are specific to certain pollinators, they are re-designing their gardens to become more ‘wildlife’ friendly, and local groups are securing small fields for the express purpose of establishing flowering meadows where butterflies and bees can find their choice natural flowering plants. Not only do we owe it to the pollinators to ensure their surival, we owe it to ourselves aswell. Think how difficult and costly it would be to artificially pollinate the many thousands of plants which our honey bees do for free.

In a land far removed from our ideas of being in Africa on a safari, is a place that lies quietly hidden in the extreme western half of southern Africa. This is a land of dry mountains and rocky plains, with no tar roads or well maintained gravel tracks. It is a place for the adventurer and the four-wheel drive vehicle.  You know you have entered the Park when the well used gravel track dissappears into the landscape, and you find yourself engaging low-range four-wheel drive.

Life out here is sustained by a regular light rainfall or mist which rolls in off the Atlantic in the mornings, bringing valuable moisture to this arid landscape’s succulent plants. Once again, an area of unique plant endemism. Originally the Park was found only within the confines of South Africa, but in 2003 Presidents Sam Njumo of Namibia and Thabo Mbeki of South Africa signed a treaty which opened the Park up to become International. What this did was bring together the 4 420 km² Ai-Ais Hot Springs Game Park in Namibia and the 1 625 km² Richtersveld National Park in South Africa, thus securing the third transfrontier Park in South Africa (although the Drakensberg National Park could be seen as a transfrontier park with Lesotho).

South Africa’s move to join forces with another country to secure the future of conservation was seen as a bold move towards recognising the great importance for maintaining the biodiversity of specific regions, even if that meant dissolving borders to achieve it. Nature does not recognise borders, only the motivation to survive. Inside this Park can be found the 2^nd largest canyon in the World – the Fish River canyon, which stretches out over 161km through the steep cliffs of the Nama plateau, dropping to depths of 550metres in places, and exposing rock formations some 2,6 Billion years old.

Temperatures out here can drop to below 0°C in winter and have been recorded at 52°C in the summer months. But even in these extreme conditions, life exists and people live. The Nama people still graze their goats or sheep throughout the region as part of the treaty and community inclusive agreement. And in 2007, the Richtersveld Community Conservancy, a reserve situated just outside the Transfrontier Park, and untouched by mining activities was named a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Such a place serves both the interests of the local Nama people, and the conservation of endemic plant species. It has also opened itself up to research and tourism, and likewise attracts scientists, biologists and nature lovers from all over the world. Archaeological evidence shows that the San people lived in this region thousands of years ago, hunting its game and harvesting its plantlife.  Such human habitation was discovered in a shelter at Die Toon near Tatasberg. This site has been dated back to 2200 BC. Today the people of the Richtersveld have through sustained effort established this region as a 160,000ha reserve with World Heritage status, thus protecting this area for generations to come.

Further north is the popular natural springs resort of Ai-Ais (meaning: “hot,very hot” or “burning water”) where hikers of the Fish River canyon can begin their hike. The 60°C thermal waters are rich in sulphates and flourides, and attract many visitors during the winter months seeking its therapeutic qualities. Some people simply enjoy staying at Ai-Ais for its nearby canyon walks and hikes, and the opportunity to have a morning dip in the mineral pools. From November to February Ai-Ais is closed due to the extreme temperatures of the summer months. This side of the reserve is a little more established with luxury tourist accomodation and camping facilities found throughout, and makes for a good starting point for an extended trip into Namibia.

So if you’re looking for something off the beaten track, and something unique the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park may well deliver on that. But be prepared to be self-sufficient and well-prepared if you opt for a self-drive experience, otherwise you could look into flying into one of the small airstrips on the Namibia side where you can let your hair down at one of the luxury accomodation lodges.

Almost every organism shares an acute ability to perceive its surroundings through the application of sensory organs. We as the human species, are endowed with an ability which goes beyond the instinctive and sub-conscious perception. And it is this ability which gives us the edge in much of our dealings with the world around us.  To reason with the intellect in conjunction with our senses allows us to formulate a very quick response to a given situation. Most higher animals are only beginning to touch on this ability, like the primates.

However, all too often I see our abilities are not given adequate training and development, leaving us operating at half our potential. I mentioned in one of my previous articles how the Shaolin monks (warrior buddhists) trained their body and minds to a very high level of sensory perception which gave them an edge over any threat to their monastery from invading tribes and war parties. Such abilities would have included learning the power of silence – allowing the mind to perceive every sound that moves about in ones immediate environment – whilst walking. The ability to observe – when the mind has been silenced the eyes can be used to their full potential. By gazing out over the landscape or immediate environment, signs of other humans moving through the area can quickly be seen, or the recent movement of animals in the area can be understood, indicating how safe it is to proceed in a given direction.

I see animals as possessing a subconscious/instinctual ability to perceive any movement of intrusion into their space, as though they hold a most basic perception of the intuition (try this exercise: look directly into the eyes of a bird, antelope or deer which has not yet become aware of you, and see how long it takes before it looks in your direction – your gaze has an ability to pierce the space and thoughts of another creature, much like it has an ability to do the same to you). This trick shows at a most basic level our potentials for establishing our sensory perception. And being higher animals, we can really utilise this when walking on safari.

Imagine walking in a group of eight people though lion country in such a way that your whole group can pass by a pride of lion using all the elements to your advantage, plus your newly developed sensory abilities to completely avoid their attentions – to become invisible. I once read a book called ‘Mutant Message Down Under’ about the Aboriginals of Australia and how they have developed their sensory abilities to become so intune with nature that it has allowed them to achieve great success when out hunting or finding water. The Bushmen of Southern Africa very likely achieved a similar level of interaction. With such an ability moving through a given environment the mind can operate and perceive everything as an open book, and act intelligently towards every encounter. You become an intelligent steward of the earth.

In our busy modern lives our senses have been dulled by the bright neons of billboards and advertsing campaigns constantly bombarding our eyes. We walk about not needing to rely on our senses because we have built cities which safe-guard us from all the “creepy crawlies” of the wilderness places. We have lost touch with our higher faculties because today our modern lives have created things which provide all our most basic needs: shelter, food and society. So the senses are ever-steadily receding into a quiet place behind our daily activities.

But come to the wild places or go on safari and see what happens – suddenly the mind changes gear and all the senses come to the fore. A renewal occurs and suddenly you are hearing sounds and smelling smells. The sound of a fire crackling under a starry sky, with the faint warm pulses touching your face – the body feels alive, you feel renewed. You have touched the senses as they should be and remembered the real.